Udon ThaniTo see a map of the city, including details of 29 hotels and guesthouses, as well as temples, churches, markets, lakes and more, click HERE). To see where Udon Thani is, have a look at my Isaan map and also my map of the whole of Thailand. It's a little south of Nong Khai and Vientiane (Laos). To be honest, I was a little disappointed with Udon Thani. I looked on a map before I traveled there and saw lakes scattered around the center and envisaged a peaceful town center. But its quite the opposite. It's a relatively big city, hence the accompanying traffic but whereas other large cities seem to get over this by having
The town was a U.S. army base in the 1960's and 1970's. I was told this caused the town to grow unnaturally quickly, leaving a bit of a void to the center after the army left. I wonder if Udon Thani's large bar scene is a remnant of this... The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Ban Chiang is just 30 kilometers to the east of the city. Here, in 1966, some pottery jars were stumbled upon and found to date from 4,000 years ago, in the Bronze Age. Subsequent excavation led to bracelets, rings, axes, human bones and more. Now they're displayed in the museum here. You can also visit one of the actual excavation pits. Entry is just 30 baht. Head towards Sakon Nakon on Highway 22 (see bottom right corner of this map). For those visitors here for Ban Chiang and using Udon Thani as a base, the town does have its charm...you just have to search for it a little! Nong Prajak Lake to the west of the city center is a large lake, very popular with locals in the early mornings and at night. There was a nice atmosphere when I visited - many walkers, joggers, cyclists and the occasional roller-blader.
There's a place where you can hire bicycles here - if there's 2 of you, you can hire a tandem (3 and a....what's the word....tri...something!) (20 baht/30 baht/40 baht an hour - see map). Throughout Thailand, the government seems to take great care and pride over its city parks and Udon Thani is no exception. There are some wonderful trees and plants here, including coconut trees. Head over the small connecting bridges to visit an 'island' within the lake to see most of this flora. At night, Thesa Road, along the eastern edge of the park has open-air massages and numerous food stalls that help create a slightly carnival atmosphere (something the Thais seem adept at!). However, this wasn't my favorite park on the city - the roads circling the park were a bit too busy. The other two lakes you can see on the map are much more laid-back. Nong Sim lake and park is smaller than the other 2 and has a really relaxed feel to it. I had a lie down under a tree here and forgot that just 5 minutes walk away was the commotion of the city. And Nong Bua Lake, east of the center, is particularly beautiful. Here, you can rent small pedal and row boats and head out onto the large lake which many couples and families were doing (Mon-Fri 1pm to 7:30pm, Sat & Sun 9am to 7:30pm...40 baht per hour). It's a really lovely lake to watch the sun set and take in the tranquil setting.
There's also a museum you can visit, on Phosi Road, close to Nong Prajak Lake. Opening hours are 8:30am to 4:30pm Monday to Friday and 8am to 4pm, Saturday and Sunday. I arrived at about 4:45pm to a locked door so I can't tell you what it's like or how much entry costs!
As well as Ban Chiang World Heritage site, an interesting days journey, 90 or so kilometers from Udon Thani is Phu Phra Bat Historical Park. The main bus and train station are very central and conveniently located - see the lower right hand side of the map. Buses west to Chiang Mai and Loei leave from the bus terminal at the western edge of the town (see map). Buses to and from Nong Khai, an hour north of Udon Thani, leave from the bus terminal in the northern part of the city (see map).
Return from Udon Thani to Isaan (North-East Thailand)
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